BHUTAN - The Land of Thunder Dragon

Still reminiscing about Bhutan! 

One trip...a thousand memories!! 

I hope this blog helps as many people planning a trip here. Read till the end and experience Bhutan first hand!

Day 1: 

22:15     Bengaluru - Kolkata flight : Safe timing - helps even if the flight is delayed for about an hour so that the connecting flight isn’t missed. 

08:15    Kolkata - Paro flight.

Our flight from Bangalore was on time and we reached Kolkata at 1 a.m. But, Bhutan Airlines counter was closed. It was not due to open till 5:30 a.m. Usually airline counters open 3 hours before departure. But this one didn't. Hence, we had to spend close to 4 hours just waiting in the normal seating area, which was just like a paan-stained street! Fyi, there is a dormitory in Kolkata airport if you wish to sleep in this duration. The airport manager will help with this. Anyway we got to know this only after the person at Bhutan Airlines counter told us at 5:30 a.m. The airport was majorly empty until then. 

Day 2: 

Our flight to Bhutan was on time. It was a small and neat flight with smiling and courteous air hostesses . A cute little meal with sandwiches, muffin, juice and kitkat was served. *No pre-booking of the meal is required. Everyone is given this vegetarian meal on board.*

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by our guide- Ugyoen Puentsho (UP). An absolutely marvelous airport, it was so full of Bhutanese culture depictions.

       

On our way to Thimpu, we stopped at the confluence, Chuzom. 

*Chuzom - meeting of two rivers : chu- river ; zom- meeting*

                                 

Agriculture remains an important part of life in Bhutan, while hydropower and tourism are major contributors to its economy. The country grows its fruits and vegetables organically, with cow dung and other organic manures commonly used to enrich the soil. Bhutan’s connection with nature and its efforts towards food self-sufficiency are admirable, although the country does import a significant share of its food requirements. One thing that particularly stood out to me was the road culture. There seemed to be a wonderful sense of understanding, coordination and cooperation among drivers. Traffic police concept was almost nil. Around 7 lakh population spreads over 94 kms. Just a couple of hours into the country and we felt it was a 'Green and clean Bhutan'. With 80% Buddhism followers and 20% Hinduism, the country has less than 1% Muslims. 

Day 3:

We visited National Memorial Chhorten - a stupa built by the kings to ward off evil. Our first impression of the place - spotlessly clean, green, pigeons feeding on food on one side, old Bhutanese people chanting mantras with beaded chains in their hands, girls and boys in traditional Bhutanese clothes praying and lighting butter lamps on another side.

We then proceeded to see the Big Buddha located on a hill. The statue was 52 m in height and completely made of bronze, by a company in Singapore, upon the request of the king of Bhutan. Located below the Buddha statue was a temple completely made of bronze with gold finish. 

                                                                                    

                                                                                                   

   

There were about hundred small statues of Buddha and of the different gods and goddesses of Buddhism - Goddess of wisdom, Goddess of compassion, Goddess of long life and so on. The Bhutanese worship each goddess to imbibe the qualities she embodies. 

They believe in karma and reincarnation. They have this thing called 'Phallus' which is the symbol of a penis, considered to be good omen. Anyone suffering from infertility issues or family issues go to that particular temple and pray. This was a super colourful temple, majorly the rainbow colours adorning the walls and absolutely no shame or whatsoever associated; only spiritual fortune. In fact, in all of Bhutan, you'd not see a place without these. The goddesses here are in 2 forms: Green Tara and White Tara, representing different sets of qualities each. One common feature that we found was that the head of each god or goddess had atleast six skulls (some with more), indicating the 'shadvairi' or enemies of humans - Kama, Krodha, Lobha, Moha, Mada, Matsara. (Zoom into the second pic)

                          

  

Throughout, our guide had been telling us that every goddess had signs/symbols for combating fear in humans. So it was evident that they feared outside/inside powers. He kept mentioning "this is for warding of evil, this is for warding off fear" and so on. The dragon in each goddess' hand also indicated warding off evil. Unfortunately, photography was prohibited, so, I do not have any pictures of the temple inside. 

Next, we proceeded to a small residential locality to witness a cultural programme. We were greeted with utmost respect and warmth. We were also offered special Bhutanese tea as we sat through for about 20 minutes. 

Butter tea- a specialty tea in Bhutan served with toasted raw rice and corn fritters

                                      

Our next stop was Royal Takin reserve - home to several endangered species native to the Himalayas. A special resident here was the national animal of Bhutan -Takin. 

                          

 

Takin is believed to be the result of a miracle created by one of the llamas of Tibet, who combined the head of a goat and the body of a cow with just bones in his hand and attached them together to create this animal. There were Himalayan yaks, some Himalayan deer species and some special birds I hadn't heard of until then. I was truly impressed by the thoughtful design of the zoo, which prioritized visitors’ comfort and convenience at every turn. We had a lovely banana smoothie at the cafe here. 

Next destination for the day was 'Simply Bhutan', a living museum where we witnessed the culture and tradition of Bhutanese with live demonstrations. We also saw a lot of their ancestral kitchen equipment. (pretty much what our ancestors used in our households)

 

            

We danced with the Bhutanese. We practiced some archery. We basically experienced a lot of their culture. They are traditional people who follow their customs religiously. They are not yet influenced by the cosmopolitan world. 

After a not so hectic day (thanks to Chariot world tours for a wonderfully organized trip so far), we came back to our hotel Le Meridien, Thimphu  ,had a yummy Sunday brunch and then proceeded to River Tim. The water was freezing cold, our feet had become numb, yet we managed to spend some time. We could not resist the beauty of the shallow green waters running over the completely pebbled river.

Back into our room ; Done for the day ; We still had time to swim in the fabulous indoor heated pool at our hotel.

The country was indeed beautiful, but the lack of proper drainage systems became evident during the rains.

Day 4:

We started off to Tango monastery foothill. It was a 45 minute drive. We began the hike with a lot of enthusiasm but within a mere 2 minutes, we became super tired and breathless because the climb was way too steep and we hadn’t hiked since long. We took some time to adapt to the gradient and then we were all set. We took about 45 minutes to reach the top. 

      

                                                                                                                              

Some parts of the monastery were still under construction. It was originally built in the 13th century, hence the defining old structure with aged, creaking wooden fixtures. 

A typical design of a monastery is like this: you a have a meditation room with separate throne-like chairs for the head monks and a tall but narrower ladder structure leading to the altar- where their idols are kept inside a glass structure. What surprised me was the design of the staircase everywhere. I m still not sure why they build small and narrow steps which are difficult to climb.

We witnessed the holy session of this community where the head monk chants mantras and purifies all his students. There is a remarkable similarity between their customs and our own - bells and drums are used to ward off evil during the holy session. Then they have incense sticks circulated by another monk for everyone to smell. The head monk then personally comes to each one and places a brass double- sided bell-like structure on the head and chants a mantra. That according to them indicates one is on the path to liberation and enlightenment. We were very very lucky ( as told by our guide) to get blessings from their llama.

While we descended, our cycles were ready at the base camp!! We cycled along the river of Thimphu for about 5 kms and it started pouring. 

So we had to shift ourselves back into our car that was following us all along. All through, we felt sad that we couldn’t cycle the planned 12km distance on our way back. Nevertheless, it was one of the best experiences to cycle along the river on one side and mountains on the other.

We came back to our hotel for lunch. We had pre-ordered our thali, opting for a non-spicy version, as Bhutanese cuisine is known for its generous use of green chillies.

            

                                 

Rejuvenated and brimming with enthusiasm, we headed to the School of Arts and Crafts, followed by the Bhutan Postal Museum, located barely ten minutes from our hotel.

    

           

This is the place to know more about their heritage and ancestral traditions. By now, we were almost well versed with their cultural legacy.

The beauty of a place lies in its charm they say. The charm of Bhutan is the hospitality of Bhutanese, the untouched nature and the minimal population.

Day 5:

We drove to Punakha early. We compulsorily stopped at Dochula pass but it was very foggy that day and visibility was low. We couldn’t spot the mountain peaks of Kanchenjunga, it was freezing outside and we brushed past the 108 stupas there.

We checked in to this picturesque retreat cocooned in nature's tranquility - Dhensa boutique hotel .

What we liked - the pine trees all around the hotel, the beautiful room with a spacious balcony and view of River Punakha, top-notch cleanliness and maintenance,  well-prepared ala-carte.

Post lunch, we ventured out onto the streets of Punakha - a small town with loads of purple flowered trees, tidy and orderly markets (choices pretty much like Bengaluru but unmatched upkeep), tiny streams by the road and simple living on display. A little disappointing for the first sight here - people spitting paan on roads (nowhere else in Bhutan till now), persistent stench from the drains and litter here and there. Anyway, the walk by the Punakha river was breathtaking.

 

Day 6:

A planned day excursion to Phobjikha valley- Heaven on earth! 

With absolutely breathtaking views of fog-covered mountains, the ground carpeted in endless shades of green, terrace farms, the sight of yaks, cows, horses and purple miniature flowers, it was a magnificent feeling of being one with nature. If you want some candid shots of yourself, this is the place!! This valley is a must visit in Bhutan to actually witness the scenic beauty. 

We then visited the Crane Information Centre - a rescue and rehabilitation shelter predominantly for cranes and other endangered bird species. We observed 2 injured cranes recouping, watched a documentary on the annual winter migration of cranes from Tibet and highlighting the conservation efforts undertaken to protect them.

On our itinerary next was Wangdue Phodrang, a temple of great significance. 

Next up, a spontaneous visit to Amankora resort - the only 6-star resort in Bhutan. Indeed, it was nestled in a valley setup surrounded by farmland- almost like no man's land. If you ever want a quiet luxurious escape, this is the place to be! We had a cup of wonderful masala chai infused with herbs and spices, checked out their rooms for future stays and bid goodbye. We ended the day with a silent dinner by the river, listening to the waters.

Day 7:

It was a sunny day with pleasant breeze and ideal wind movement. Our guide UP recommended we go rafting. Having come all the way to Punakha and not rafting??? That certainly wouldn't complete the trip :)

Although there are rivers everywhere, Punakha is the only place that offers high rapids rafting on Po Chhu river and mild rapids rafting on Mo Chhu river. We obviously chose Mo Chhu.

**Po- male river; Mo- female river**

Important tip: Do not choose the rafting company on your own, go by your guide's direction only.

             

It was a great experience and powered us up yet again!

Next up, we made our way to Punakha Fortress. History says, when Punakha was the capital of Bhutan, this was the Royal Office. This was where the first King’s coronation happened. The royal government offices still exist here and civil servants work here. The fortress is a must visit. Excessively beautiful structure housed amidst nature’s best flowering trees, it is a delight to the eyes! Covered in purple and river flowing by its side, it is a picture postcard place!

              

At our next destination, we experienced the marvelous walk on Punakha Suspension Bridge - the longest bridge in Bhutan, built in the 15th century. Again, a must visit!! It seemed like we were in the middle of nowhere and only surrounded by nature at eye-level and water below us! 

This was our last night in Punakha and we were already looking forward to the sunrise for our excitement had bundled up listening to UP talk about our next journey. That was the much awaited part of the entire trip.

What we didn’t like of our stay in Dhensa - delayed service, no entertainment in the hotel, very dim lighting, excess ginger in the food, not much choice in the buffet, poor breakfast variety, uncooked vegetables in food, too many steps to go the parking, considering that everyday was an outing day.

Day 8:

We set out early and spun the wheel of luck so we could stop by the 108 stupas at Dochula pass again and catch a glimpse of Kanchenjunga. We were lucky indeed! The weather was manageable enough for us to get out of the car. We did see the snow-covered peaks.

And.. the moment arrived! We checked into Le Meridien, Paro - a paradise in itself! An exquisitely mesmerizing location that cannot be explained in words and only be experienced, it was a dream haven. We sulked in the beauty of this hotel, experiencing every bit of the heavenly taste it gave us.

Day 9:

We took a tour of Paro Fortress(very similar to Punakha Fortress) - has a temple built by the current head of their religion, National Museum of Bhutan - a 7 storeyed structure of the 17th century(pretty much like a fort) containing all of Bhutan’s history - from swords to the oldest dog’s canines to war attires to vessels of the olden days. It has an entire room holding the history of Buddhism through paintings of the 17th century. It has been preserved very well and neatly kept. A unique feature of this museum was the circular watch tower on the top.

At every temple or fortress or stupa - the sacred place of Bhutanese, women are not allowed to wear short dresses - skirts/shorts and half sleeves or sleeveless tops. For men, half sleeve shirts with collar is allowed, but without collar is considered disrespect. It is best to carry full arm tops and jeans (covering the entire body) for a hassle free holiday

Post lunch, we went to a farm house near the fortress for a traditional hot stone bath. This was an authentic, no-glamour setup with bath tubs made of wood. The water in the tubs were filled with herbs plucked from around the place. Stones collected from the river nearby were heated with pinewood and put inside the bathtubs from one end, to heat the water inside. It is believed that the mineral deposits on the stones (from the river) are infused into the water and give the skin a good glow while removing all dirt particles - basically good for skin and prevents skin diseases. 

On our way back, we stopped at the highway for this view. 

Day 10:

Big day!! 

This is one place that any tourist wouldn't and shouldn't miss - trek to Tiger's Nest.

The trek is divided into 3 climbs all of which require very high stamina. Total duration of the trek ranges between 3-5 hrs depending on one's experience. To facilitate beginners and intermediates, horses take you through the most steep climb. Seasoned trekkers may find it moderately difficult. At every stationed point, there are washrooms, cafes and icecream joints.

We did the first climb on a horse and it almost brought our hearts to our mouths!! We imagined we wouldn't be alive to continue with the rest of the trek! Though the horses were trained, it was super scary to watch them walk along the edge of the mountain, which was just about a cm away from the deepest fall of life!

 

After about an hour and half, we reached a view point and took a break. My knees gave way and I couldn't reach the top, but my family did it successfully!

              

And thus came another memorable day to a close. As we prepared to bid adieu to this beautiful country, we had one last evening to cherish – spent in the tranquil company of the beautiful Paro River, flowing right before our hotel.

Through out, we had a wonderful guide and driver, who made this trip so smooth and unforgettable. 

Memorable takeaways from this heavenly place - 

*Nature untouched.

*All stray and pet dogs are vaccinated.

*7.7 lakh population

*No traffic signals and traffic police except one circle in Thimphu. 

*People have self discipline.

*Roots of tradition bring back people who have gone abroad.

IMPORTANT TIP: Please contact me for the guide's details. It is atleast 3 times less expensive to book from their travel desk than from here in India.